Posts Tagged ‘Paris Flight’

August Block – Options Galore!

Friday, July 10th, 2015

This blog is full of ideas for using the Augusta block with Paris Flight (January), Jim Dandy (March) and Lady of the Lake Block (May).

Let’s begin with my layout for my row quilt showing the Augusta block row dropped in.

Augusta2015OTRproject

Only two more block designs to go….this year is flying by!

I plan to put up the foundation pattern for the triangle spacer rows in August. I am home most of the month so it will get done.

And of course there will be a blog announcing the addition of the PDF for their foundations to the 2015 O.T.R. page.

But for now I played with all the blocks I have released so far and came up with the following ideas to share.

AugustaAlone1I wanted to make a very traditional one block quilt layout with sashing and cornerstones using the Augusta block.

It is such a dynamic block with all the sharp angles I wanted to just see it on it’s own.   When I first start to play with the block(s) I am just using the blocks from my 2015 On The Road row quilt project thus the coloring.  But I see the lines and that is what I am always looking for.  Then I start to play with color.

AugustaAlone1.2I used two different colorways for the blocks.  Again very traditional.  But the palette very modern.

This next pattern uses Augusta, Lady of the Lake and Paris Flight blocks.

Augusta.LadyoftheLake.ParisFlight 1

And recolored in a soft cool color palette.

Augusta.LadyoftheLake.ParisFlight 1.2

How about putting Jim Dandy and Augusta together.

Jim Dandy is such a heavy block to me with those blocky corners.  I wanted to see it as a border.

JimDandy&Augusta1

And I think this might go in the list of possibilities.

I brought colors from the “hot” Jim Dandy border blocks into the first ring of “cool” Augusta blocks to soften the solid line between block changes.

JimDandy&Augusta1.2I hope you like some of these ideas.  And maybe you have a few of your own now dancing in your head.

You can find template  (and EPP papers if you would like to tackle the blocks that way) in my store, the link is above in the header.   And links to all the “how-to blogs” for each block are on the 2015 O.T.R. page.

I am out the door on Monday for 8 days of touring the state of Michigan and visiting several guilds.

Any orders placed from July 13 to July 21st will ship out on July 22nd.

And don’t forget to “like” my facebook page MDQuilts to see blocks as they are being made while I am one the road.

Enjoy your day,

MickeySignature

2015 On The Road Paris Flight – Hand Piecing the block

Wednesday, January 7th, 2015

WARNING THIS BLOG IS VERY PICTURE HEAVY FOR THOSE DOWNLOADING ON A MOBILE DEVICE

It all starts with the block palette.  Remember treat each block as it's own little quilt and play! Stretch your wings and try a new combo of colors to you.  And keep an eye on your textures.

It all starts with the block palette. Remember treat each block as it’s own little quilt and play! Stretch your wings and try a new combo of colors to you. And keep an eye on your textures.

Work this block in quadrants.

Work this block in quadrants.

And each quardrant is split into two halves.

And each quardrant is split into two halves.

These are the templates.  I have left the brown paper on them for this picture so they are easily seen.  The three circled templates will be used in reverse also in this block.

These are the templates. I have left the brown paper on them for this picture so they are easily seen. The three circled templates will be used in reverse also in this block.

 

THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT TIP!

This triangle can make or break you in this design.  You will need 8 of it, 4 right side and 4 reverse.  The tip I have for you is to mark the outside edge of the template for orientation.   This is like marking the outside edge of your papers for EPP.   I use this ruler tape.  But you can mark it with anything...even a permanent marker.  Just mark it!

This triangle can make or break you in this design. You will need 8 of it, 4 right side and 4 reverse. The tip I have for you is to mark the outside edge of the template for orientation. This is like marking the outside edge of your papers for EPP. I use this ruler tape. But you can mark it with anything…even a permanent marker. Just mark it!

Here it is marked.

Here it is marked.

 

Pretend this paper is your fabric.  After you trace the template, draw a "X" or two...or three in the seam allowance to indicate that this is the outside edge.  Trust me this will be a great help when sewing together!

Pretend this paper is your fabric. After you trace the template, draw a “X” or two…or three in the seam allowance to indicate that this is the outside edge. Trust me this will be a great help when sewing together!

 

For information on marking pens and tips on marking (freezer paper stabilization) please see my blog post linked here

So now go trace your templates on your fabrics and cut out your pieces.

 

Here is my block ready to be sewn.  I lay out every block just to make sure I haven't reversed, or forgotten to reverse, anything.  And to make sure that I like my fabric choices.  Things can look differently when the fabric is cut to the scale of the block vs. the "blob" you pulled when putting together your palette.

Here is my block ready to be sewn. I lay out every block just to make sure I haven’t reversed, or forgotten to reverse, anything. And to make sure that I like my fabric choices. Things can look differently when the fabric is cut to the scale of the block vs. the “blob” you pulled when putting together your palette.

Here is our quadrant now marked with piece #'s for easy reference and outside edges on those tricky triangles.

Here is our quadrant now marked with piece #’s for easy reference and outside edges on those tricky triangles.

The arrows show the sewing sequence.  Start with #1 and work to #5 on the upper triangle.  And start at #8 and work to #6 on the lower triangle.  Have you needle loaded with enough thread to sew all the seams.    Now let's tackle the next tip.  The intersections as shown with the red circles.

The arrows show the sewing sequence. Start with #1 and work to #5 on the upper triangle. And start at #8 and work to #6 on the lower triangle. Have you needle loaded with enough thread to sew all the seams.
Now let’s tackle the next tip. The intersections as shown with the red circles.

As detailed as I am being in this post I know that for some this may not register at first.  It’s ok.  We are only human.   Don’t give up.

I am putting a link here for the piecing post I did for the Castle Wall Block back in September.

Since that block is a little less complicated,if the following steps cause you panic, go back and read this blog and then jump back here and reread… sometimes seeing the same thing done two different ways/sequences makes things clearer.

Onward we go!

I am going to tackle the 3-piece half of the quadrant first.  I line up piece #7 on piece #8.  I pin on the line.  Always make sure you drawn inner lines match up by pinning.  Do not count on the accuracy of your cut outer edges.

I am going to tackle the 3-piece half of the quadrant first. I line up piece #7 on piece #8. I pin on the line. Always make sure you drawn inner lines match up by pinning. Do not count on the accuracy of your cut outer edges.
NOTE : I am using glass head pins here so that they can be seen. I still prefer Karen Kay Buckley’s new super fine pins that you see in the Castle Wall blog. I will be adding these pins to the web store next week.

And let's sew.  I sew SLIGHTLY ABOVE MY DRAWN LINE.  This compensates for the actual girth of the drawing of the line.   These templates have a 1/4" seam vs a 3/8" seam.  This makes them usable for hand piecing AND for fussy cutting for EPP.  So remember to sew ABOVE the drawn to compensate.

And let’s sew. I sew SLIGHTLY ABOVE MY DRAWN LINE. This compensates for the actual girth of the drawing of the line. These templates have a 1/4″ seam vs a 3/8″ seam. This makes them usable for hand piecing AND for fussy cutting for EPP. So remember to sew ABOVE the drawn to compensate.
Backstich at your beginning. Make a small running stitch. I backstitch every inch on the pieces in this block and always finish with a backstitch before I join the next piece. Here we go….ready to CIRCLE AN INTESECTION?

 

And now you are at your first intersection.  An intersection is where three or more pieces meet.

The trick in hand sewing to accomplishing nice neat intersections resulting in sharp points and no pin holes is making a circle around each and every on when you reach it.

If you have roundabout traffic stops, or have ever encountered on, it’s like that.  You literally go around in a circle.

At this intersection we are joining Pieces #8-7-6 shown in the diagram above.

OK. somewhere I lost a picture so this direction is just going to be written.

Stab Stitch thru Piece #8 to #7.  Pull your thread thru.

Now pin Piece #6 to the opposite side of #6, right sides together (see next pic).

Stab Stitch thru Piece #8 to #7.  Pull thread thru.

With Piece #6 pinned to #7 stab stitch thru the very point of the drawn line. Pull your thread thru.

Here is the backside of this previous picture showing the stab stitch coming right thru the drawn point.

Here is the backside of this previous picture showing the stab stitch coming right thru the drawn point.

 

  Your needle should now be between Piece #6 and Piece #8.  Continue stab stitching thru TWO pieces of fabric at a time…ie, now go thru 6-8, then 8-7, and finally 7-6 where you will start to sew your second seam along the pins shown in the picture above.

Don’t forget to back stitch and finish off with a knot.

Here is your first sewn triangle.  I will tackle pressing tips once the next triangle is complete.

Here is your first sewn triangle. I will tackle pressing tips once the next triangle is complete.

Now we will tackle Pieces 1-5.   Refer to the graphic above with the green arrow for your sewing sequence.

This is my first seam between Piece #1 & #2

This is my first seam between Piece #1 & #2

from the right side

from the right side stabbing needle thru to prepare for the addition of Piece #3

Blog1.0705

Piece #3 pinned in place. I switched to the Karen Kay Buckley pins. And you see I have stabbed thru the point with the needle. My next stitch will be a stab thru #3 to #1, and then #1 thru #2 (again), and finally #2 to #3 exactly where we are in this picture. Doing this may seem tedious but the results are wonderful. Sharp points and no pin holes in your intersections!

Sew your seam!

I've sew piece #3 to #2 and now ready to sew #4 to #3.  When I can I do stack my entire block in order of sewing (see background).  This makes for mindless sewing late at night.

I’ve sew piece #3 to #2 and now ready to sew #4 to #3. When I can I do stack my entire block in order of sewing (see background). This makes for mindless sewing late at night.

Keep sewing until all intersections have been circled and all five pieces of this triangle are together.

Next up ….PRESSING MATTERS!

With this block I have found that pressing the units (ie. triangles) really makes a difference when sewing them together to make the quadrant square.

My tip: PRESS the center triangles seams out on both pieces!  You make think this contradicts the traditional one in and the other out for nestling of seams but with and sewing you have control over those seams and with circling the intersection it really doesn’t matter like in machine piecing.  Press in in this fashion allowed me to really match up the points.

Center Triangles (Piece #3 & #7) pressed with seam allowances out.

Center Triangles (Piece #3 & #7) pressed with seam allowances out.

Sew these triangles together along the center.  I press this seam towards the Piece #6-7-8 Triangle.     This square should measure 5.5″.  If you are too small, which is common the first time you hand piece sew your seams another thread width or two above the drawn line.   Just as in machine piecing.  Keep measuring and adjusting until you find your “sweet spot”.

Once you have four quadrants sewn then arrange them following the line drawing of the block and sew together two units.  Press these seams in opposite directions for the traditional nestle.  Now joint the these two units together (think large 4 Patch).

DISCLAIMER: That center is going to be ugly.  It’s 8 points coming together.  Take your time circling it, go slow and even do it twice if you feel your block needs it.   You can do it.  The first block is always the hardest…just push thru.

Now I once my final block seam is sewn take a look at that center.  If I like what I see I give the mess in the back a slight trim and then I press that final seam open and the wad in the center into submission.   Best Press is my friend and will be yours to!

Here is my hand pieced Paris Flight Block!

Finished Paris Flight Block.  Your block should measure 10.5".

Finished Paris Flight Block. Your block should measure 10.5″.

 

Whew…I need a nap.  🙂

Can’t wait to see your blocks.  If you have a question please post it in the comments or on the facebook page and I will do my best to answer them in a timely manner.  I have a full day of travel tomorrow and lecture in the evening so it may be a day or two.

For those new to the blog…you can find the templates, papers, and all kinds of other goodies in the store on my website.  Just look for the tab at the top that says “Store” and click thru.  You can also find links to my facebook and pinterest pages in the column on the left.   Normally I would put links here but WordPress is starting to act up on this blog post.  I think it needs a nap too.

Enjoy your day,
MickeySignature

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2015 On The Road – Paris Flight EPP Style

Monday, January 5th, 2015

WARNING THIS BLOG IS VERY PICTURE HEAVY FOR THOSE DOWNLOADING ON A MOBILE DEVICE

Ok let me answer a question I get asked a lot ….what does EPP stand for?

EPP = English Paper Piecing

Yes I know many of you know this but some don’t.

English Paper Piecing is wrapping fabric around a paper shape, basting it and hand sewing together.

Many people apply the generic term of Paper Piecing to this…I like to stick the word “English” in there to further define it from foundation piecing.   Foundation piecing is when you have a paper pattern and you are sewing fabric to it along sew lines, flipping fabric back and sewing another to create a block or unit of a block.   This is sometimes also referred to paper piecing.  And thus causes new quilters all kinds of rightfully so confusion.

So I will use the term English Paper Piecing or EPP for short.

Now let me say I will most likely be making 80-90% of my blocks via hand piecing (which I will cover in a blog tomorrow).   Hand piecing works best for me in this type of project as I am literally shoving my block into a small bag and into my backpack to work on while on the road.   I have found that even a hexie EPP project gets mangled with bent papers doing this.   And when working on book samples for the Pieced Hexies and Pieced Hexies Deux books on the road I was constantly ironing EPP hexies in my hotel room.   To avoid this snafu I am going to hand piece on the road and occasionally do an EPP block to share while at home…or if it’s a driving gig and I have the ability to pack things with more care.

So on to specifics about the Paris Flight EPP Block.

 

Four shapes of the Paris Flight Block

Four shapes of the Paris Flight Block

These two pieces will be used in the reverse also in the block.

These two pieces will be used in the reverse also in the block.

Lay out all the pieces in the block and mark the edges with hash marks.  Make sure these hash marks are at least 1/2 inch in length so they will be visible after fabric is basted.  I also mark the four quadrants of this block by number.  This helps keep things in order.

Lay out all the pieces in the block and mark the OUTSIDE edges with hash marks. Make sure these hash marks are at least 1/2 inch in length so they will be visible after fabric is basted. I also mark the four quadrants of this block by number. This helps keep things in order. MARKING THE OUTSIDE EDGE IS VERY IMPORTANT. THIS WILL BE A MAJOR HELP WHEN SEWING PIECES TOGETHER.

Lay them out on the fabric with enough space between to mark a 1/4 inch around each piece.

Lay them out on the fabric with enough space between to mark a 1/4 inch around each piece.  NOTE: I used a dot of glue stick, specifically sewing blue glue stick, to hold papers in place.  Just a dot.

I use several different marking pens and even a mechanical pencil to mark my cutting lines.  Match the best pen/pencil to the job for each fabric.   NOTE: you can use the Paris Flight acrylic templates to mark you fabrics for cutting and side step this process if you wish.

I use several different marking pens and even a mechanical pencil to mark my cutting lines. Match the best pen/pencil to the job for each fabric. NOTE: you can use the Paris Flight acrylic templates to mark you fabrics for cutting and side step this process if you wish.

 

Using a ruler I mark a 1/4 seam around the entire piece.

Using a ruler I mark a 1/4 seam around the entire piece.

To "knock off" excess fabric and make basting a bit easier I measure 1/4" flat from the paper point tip.

To “knock off” excess fabric and make basting a bit easier I measure 1/4″ flat from the paper point tip.

Here is the tip with the excess knocked off.

Here is the tip with the excess knocked off.

 

All ready to be cut out.

All ready to be cut out.

NOTE: if you are using a fabric with a directional print take the time to lay out your papers to use that print to your advantage.   This fabric has a nontraditional stripe print.  By laying out all the papers to flow with the strip it will be less chaotic on the eyes when the block is put together.  These "little things" can make or break a block.

NOTE: if you are using a fabric with a directional print take the time to lay out your papers to use that print to your advantage. This fabric has a nontraditional stripe print. By laying out all the papers to flow with the stripe it will be less chaotic on the eyes when the block is put together. These “little things” can make or break a block.

 

All pieces cut and laid out.  I do this with every block just to make sure I like what I have chosen.  Easier to trade out a fabric now then later when sewn together.

All pieces cut and laid out. I do this with every block just to make sure I like what I have chosen. Easier to trade out a fabric now then later when sewn together.

Basting done.  I won't cover basting here as it is covered in a tutorial on the paperpieces.com website.   Just remember to keep those point flags flying on these shapes!

Basting done. I won’t cover basting here as it is covered in a tutorial on the paperpieces.com website. Just remember to keep those point flags flying on these shapes!

 

Time to sew the four quadrants of the block  together.

Time to sew the four quadrants of the block together.

I sew the two halves of the square together.  And then the longer seam down the center matching up the intersections.

I sew the two halves of the square together. And then the longer seam down the center matching up the intersections.

All four quadrants are sewing together. Next step are to sew the squares together like a four patch.   But wait.....

All four quadrants are sewn together. Next step is to sew the squares together like a four patch. But wait…..

Look what happens if you twist the squares!  A whole new block!  Let's call this London Flight.   So here is another variation you might choose to use in your row quilt.  This project is going to be full of variations so truly it will become a very unique quilt of your own.

Look what happens if you twist the squares! A whole new block! Let’s call this block London Flight. So here is another variation you might choose to use in your row quilt. This project is going to be full of variations so truly it will become a very unique quilt of your own.

Paris Flight Block.   Now off to sew six more together for this row.  Four will have a red in the outside center triangle (see yesterday's blog for graphic) and three will have the red in the inside triangle.

Paris Flight Block.
Now off to sew six more together for this row. Four will have a red in the outside center triangle (see yesterday’s blog for graphic) and three will have the red in the inside center triangle.

Whew..that was a lot of pics.  But I didn’t cover EPP with the Castle Wall block so wanted to do so in detail with Paris Flight.   Tomorrow I will cover hand sewing a Paris Flight block.

I am busy kitting up five more blocks for on the road sewing as my 2015 work calendar begins on Thursday.

Beach Cities Quilt Guild in southern California here I come!

But first a Winter Storm Watch has just been issued for here at home.  Six inches of lovely snow.   I’m off to get these blocks kitted so I can sit and watch the snow fall later today.  I love it.

Enjoy your day,

MickeySignature

 

 

 

 

 

2015 On The Road Project – The Plan

Sunday, January 4th, 2015

(WARNING: THIS POST IS WORD HEAVY…tomorrow’s will be picture heavy…so there will be balance)

The Plan.

Once I had the quilt designed for this years Road Project  I had to come up with “The Plan”.

What is “The Plan” you might ask.  Well let me back up a bit with some more information first.

Last years project, The Castle Wall Quilt (which has a given name of Traveler’s Walls…but I have a feeling I will always refer to it as The Castle Wall Quilt), was also a scrappy quilt.   Scrap quilts really work for me in these projects for a number of reasons.

Reason #1 – I love scrappy quilts.  And of course we all make what we love.  That being said if you aren’t a scrappy quilt lover then adapt the blocks into a palette “plan” that makes you happy.  Read on for some yardage info in a few paragraphs that will help you out if you wish to make an adaptation to the plan.

Reason #2– These blocks move around a lot.  I plan to kit up all seven blocks in a row within a week to 10 days of starting each design.   And then of course these sandwich bags of block kits are being stuffed into my backpack and off we both go.   I might take a bag out in the airport while waiting for my flight, or in the hotel room after teaching, or towards the end of class if a student asks to see the block I am working on in person (this started to happen a lot towards the end of 2014 and Castle Wall).   So basically there is a chance that a piece or two might just land up being lost.   So if the block is scrappy I can either wait to I get home and replace the lost part. NOTE: I keep all the fabrics used in the block kits in a basket in my studio until the blocks are done for this purpose.  Or if there just is no more of the needed fabric…well then I find something close enough and substitute.  Just like we see done in so many antique quilts.   Just get it done.   And being scrappy this situation won’t make the block stick out like a sore thumb.

Reason #3– And probably the most important reason.  Treating each block like it’s own little quilt (I will discuss this more in a bit) keeps this project fresh to me while working on it.   And that keeps the project from fermenting.  Yes fermenting.  See there are no UFOs in my studio, there are just quilts in various stages of fermentation I say.

So let’s cover this concept of each block is it’s own little quilt.

Well easy.  Treat each block as it’s own little quilt and PLAY.

Play with color combinations and texture combinations….just play.    It’s ok to play.   We sometimes forget that this is needed in order to grow creatively.  And not every block will be a striking success.   Clunkers happen.  But they are also needed in a quilt of this nature.  In most cases they calm things down and become places for eyes to rest.   And well sometimes there are just truly hideous blocks…and those become fodder for the back of the quilt. It happens to all of us.  Don’t let it be a stopper.  Just set it to the side for the quilt back.  Just remember you need to play to grow.

untitled

So for my quilt each block will be it’s own little quilt in coloration but there does have to be something that pulls it all together.  In the Castle Wall Quilt (there I go again) it was the center fabric.  I fell in love with Bohemia by Julie Paschkis/In The Beginning Fabrics and used a print from the line in three different colors, black, white and yellow, for the centers.   But I didn’t want to go that route this year.  I wanted something that would allow me to play even more.

RED.

RedsThat’s what will tie everything together, the color red.  It will appear in each and every block in the same position.   But red fabrics will never be repeated.  They will be used only once in one block.  And there will be all kinds of reds from tomato reds to deep cherry reds.   And there will be no guidelines regarding print or style of the red fabric.   I will just pull a red and build a small quilt around it in the form of a block.

So this is why you saw the red in this image on Friday.

RBRquiltJanuary

Since I plan on using the Paris Flight block in two rows, the edges, of the quilt. I am allowing myself to mix it up just on this block and use the red in two different areas of the blocks.  I will make the first set of seven blocks (a row)  in the January-February timeframe.  The second set of Paris Flight blocks will just be fillers throughout the year when I have the seven blocks for that timeframe completed.   Remember I know all the blocks, some are very easy, one or two are a bit challenging, the easiest block falls in the next window (March-April) when my travel schedule is very full.  I am guessing I will get a few more Paris Flight blocks done then.

For those who want to use the method of using a focus fabric in each block, a’la Castle Wall, well EQ is telling me all the red in my finished design (meaning ALL the blocks…no you haven’t see this image) comes up to 1.5 yards of fabric.   As a designer I am advising that you gather up 1.75 if not 2 yards to be safe. After all you might choose to place your “red” fabric elsewhere in a block or two and a bit more fabric may or may not be needed.  So if going with a single fabric as your focus better to have a bit more than not enough.

As stated before I will be making six different blocks in my row quilt.  But you can choose to make any number you wish and substitute here and there with rows of blocks you like vs. one that just might not strike your fancy.   And as I introduce more blocks (see schedule in the blog post here) I will post some setting options incorporating the new block into the quilt in several different ways just for fun and maybe you will see a variation that catches your eye.

Here are a few playing with the Paris Flight block.

Keep in mind that the spacer bars colored in green/grey and yellow grey are just colored that way to make them visible.  colors have not been chosen for these bars at this time.

Quilt-Paris FlightVAR1

All blocks Paris Flight – coloring variations in rows

Quilt-Paris FlightVAR2

All blocks Paris Flight in a checkerboard pattern.
Look at that secondary pattern!

Quilt-Paris FlightVAR3

Paris Flight blocks in top, bottom and center row

In preparation for the unveiling of the project I made two Paris Flight blocks to share immediately with you.  One EPP style and one hand sewing using the templates.

ParisFlightBlock1I will leave you with the tease of the EPP block.

Tomorrow’s blog will cover my making of this block and all the tips I have for you  if this is your chosen method of construction.

And just wait to you see the “surprise” that this block can do.

On Tuesday I will do the same for the hand sewing method using the Acrylic Templates.

And behind the scenes I will be kitting up the remaining 5 blocks of this row as my travels for 2015 begin on Thursday!

Enjoy your day,

MickeySignature

 

 

p.s. EPP papers and Acrylic Template Sets are in stock and ready to order in the store on this site.