WARNING THIS BLOG IS VERY PICTURE HEAVY FOR THOSE DOWNLOADING ON A MOBILE DEVICE
Starting this blog off with a reposting of the orientation guide so you won’t have to flip back to the previous blog for reference. Remember you can print off a PDF of this guide, and guides for ALL the acrylic template sets on the 2015 O.T.R page.
Trace and cut all the pieces needed for a block. Don’t forget to flip and trace reverse pieces for C & D. I like to lay everything out to get a glimpse at what my finished block will look like. Notice I used a print that will blend and hide that seam line that I discussed in Thursday’s blog for pieces D and Dr.
I broke the block down until 4 triangle units composed of the following shown pieces.
Two units will be topped by a red triangle and two by the print fabric.
Other than that the units will be identical.
And two units will be topped by the print fabric.
Other than that the triangle units will be identical.
The initial piecing of these units is many short seams.
VERY IMPORTANT: REMEMBER TO SEW ABOVE THE DRAWN LINE NOT ON IT!
By doing this you are sewing a scant quarter of an inch and this will remove the excess girth of the seam that is added by the width of whatever marking tool (pen/pencil) you used to mark your mind. Just like sewing a scant quarter of an inch on your machine is advantageous , so it is in hand sewing.
Please refer back to previous block blogs for more details and pictures.
The first is the seam joining D and Dr.
C and Cr are joined to the D/Dr unit next.
These pieces have slight curves so line up each edge first with a pin and then ease in the curve.
After sewing clip the seam once or twice to further ease in the curve.
The next step of sewing triangle B to the C/D/Dr/Cr unit involves Roundabouts.
This graphic shows all the roundabouts in this block. I only indicated the roundabouts on one initial triangle (red circles) of the beginning 4 triangle units that you make for ease of following the graphic.
Remember roundabouts are the act of passing the needle thru two pieces of fabric at a time while moving completely around an intersection of 3 or more fabrics. This action pulls all the fabrics together and removes a “hole” in the intersection that would later be visible when you press the seam. Please refer back to previous block post for detail instructions about how to make a roundabout.
NOTE: Red Circles are the initial triangle roundabouts (base triangles made)
Purple Circles when two base triangles are joined to form two halves
Green Circles are the final seam with two halves are joined to complete blo
Last step in the base triangle making. Join A’s to either side.
Note if you are using two different fabrics (most likely) for your A’s be sure to sewing them on in the same order for each triangle.
The A triangles can be sewn on with one thread, no breaks. Don’t forget the roundabout at the pivot point from one triangle to the other.
Continue on making three more base triangles. Once you have found done lay them out to make sure all is correct.
Trust me on this one. Lay them out.
Now we are going to join two triangle to each other turning the four quarter triangles into two half square triangles.
Follow the Purple circles on the diagram for the location of the roundabouts on these seams.
Final seam. Join the two half square triangles. There will be five roundabouts in this one long seam.
Your block is done! Press and enjoy!
I will leave you here for a few days. Watch for a blog next will with how I will be using this block in my row quilt and some other quilt ideas using the Autumn Beauty block.
You can find the acrylic templates and or English Paper Pieces in the store here.
Note I am expecting my cases of Half Scrap Quilts sometime this week or next. I do have two traveling engagements but as soon as the books are here and I am home I will be signing and shipping them all out. Thank you everyone for your preorders. If you haven’t ordered already you can do so in the store link above.
Enjoy your day,