Posts Tagged ‘2015 On The Road’

Wandering Star Block and a Book Sale!

Sunday, December 13th, 2015

Wandering Star BlockBetter late than never they say!

The final block in the 2015 On The Road Project is the Wandering Star Block!

Trust me it looks much more complicated than it is.

 

 

Wandering Star One BlockWandering Star Templates

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have loaded the Acrylic Templates, and English Paper Piecing packs into the webstore and if you make a purchase of them by Thursday, December 17th,  midnight CST using the coupon code: STAR25 in your checkout you will receive 25% off the prices for any Wandering Star Block item.

StudioBookSaleAlso while you are in the store you will see a new category I recently added.  It is the Studio Sale category and it is filled with gently used books from my studio.   Here are some of the books currently in there.

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BOOK008

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Most books are priced at $5.00 -$7.50 and of course can be combined with any other purchase and share shipping for even more savings.

I will be working on  another Wandering Star Block sample this week and will be showing the next six blocks being made on my MDQuilts facebook page over the holiday period and to the end of January when my traveling resumes.  You may of missed my post that I have given myself until March 1st to truly complete this entire quilt.   Life just seems to be so jammed packed this year with so many activities that my typical December 31st date is just not going to happen.   HINT: I am already working on my next book!

And so I won’t unveil my next On The Road project until March 2016.  But I will tell you I am heading back to Pieced Hexies for it!

Enjoy your day,

MickeySignature

Autumn Beauty Block – Let’s sew one together!

Saturday, October 3rd, 2015

WARNING THIS BLOG IS VERY PICTURE HEAVY FOR THOSE DOWNLOADING ON A MOBILE DEVICE

Starting this blog off with a reposting of the orientation guide so you won’t have to flip back to the previous blog for reference.  Remember you can print off a PDF of this guide, and guides for ALL the acrylic template sets on the 2015 O.T.R page.

AutumnBeautyOrientationGuide

Trace and cut all the pieces needed for a block.  Don’t forget to flip and trace reverse pieces for C & D.  I like to lay everything out to get a glimpse at what my finished block will look like.  Notice I used a print that will blend and hide that seam line that I discussed in Thursday’s blog for pieces D and Dr.

AB1

I broke the block down until 4 triangle units composed of the following shown pieces.

Two units will be topped by a red triangle and two by the print fabric.

Other than that the units will be identical.

AB2

   And two units will be topped by the print fabric.

Other than that the triangle units will be identical.

AB3

The initial piecing of these units is many short seams.

VERY IMPORTANT:  REMEMBER TO SEW ABOVE THE DRAWN LINE NOT ON IT! 

By doing this you are sewing a scant quarter of an inch and this will remove the excess girth of the seam that is added by the width of whatever marking tool (pen/pencil) you used to mark your mind.  Just like sewing a scant quarter of an inch on your machine is advantageous , so it is in hand sewing.

Please refer back to previous block blogs for more details and pictures.

The first is the seam joining D and Dr.

AB4

C and Cr are joined to the D/Dr unit next.

These pieces have slight curves so line up each edge first with a pin and then ease in the curve.

After sewing clip the seam once or twice to further ease in the curve.

AB5

The next step of sewing triangle B to the C/D/Dr/Cr unit involves Roundabouts.

This graphic shows all the roundabouts in this block.  I only indicated the roundabouts on one initial triangle (red circles) of the beginning 4 triangle units that you make for ease of following the graphic.

Remember roundabouts are the act of passing the needle thru two pieces of fabric at a time while moving completely around an intersection of 3 or more fabrics.  This action pulls all the fabrics together and removes a “hole” in the intersection that would later be visible when you press the seam.   Please refer back to previous block post for detail instructions about how to make a roundabout.

NOTE: Red Circles are the initial triangle roundabouts (base triangles made)

Purple Circles when two base triangles are joined to form two halves

Green Circles are the final seam with two halves are joined to complete blo

Last step in the base triangle making.  Join A’s to either side.

Note if you are using two different fabrics (most likely) for your A’s be sure to sewing them on in the same order for each triangle.  

The A triangles can be sewn on with one thread, no breaks.  Don’t forget the roundabout at the pivot point from one triangle to the other.

AB6

Continue on making three more base triangles.  Once you have found done lay them out to make sure all is correct.

Trust me on this one. Lay them out.

Now we are going to join two triangle to each other turning the four quarter triangles into two half square triangles.

AB8

Follow the Purple circles on the diagram for the location of the roundabouts on these seams.

Final seam.  Join the two half square triangles.  There will be five roundabouts in this one long seam.

AB9

Your block is done!  Press and enjoy!

AB10

halfScrap-fullI will leave you here for a few days.  Watch for a blog next will with how I will be using this block in my row quilt and some other quilt ideas using the Autumn Beauty block.

You can find the acrylic templates and or English Paper Pieces in the store here.

Note I am expecting my cases of Half Scrap Quilts sometime this week or next.  I do have two traveling engagements but as soon as the books are here and I am home I will be signing and shipping them all out.  Thank you everyone for your preorders.  If you haven’t ordered already you can do so in the store link above.

 Enjoy your day,

MickeySignature

Autumn Beauty – Block 5 is here!

Thursday, October 1st, 2015

Ok yes it is October 1st and not September 1st.   But hey things happen and better late than never.

I did start working on this block in mid August and wasn’t happy with my design choices so I decided to delay for a week and rework my coloring and then book stuff happened, and then a gig happened, and then the most evil of infections happened and POOF it’s October.

Life happens.

But it is here now and just in time for true Autumn weather and all the joy that comes with it for me so I am saying kismet!

Autumn Beauty

It’s it a fun block!   A bit unusual, looking like a bloom in the center with a pinwheel like twirl going on around the edge.    I decided to drop in my red(s) in the center of this block.  Helps balance things out with the quilt overall.  You will see this in future blog posts this week.

The templates and EPP papers are in the store here.
Autumn Beauty Templates    Autumn Beauty One Block  Autumn Beauty 6 blocks

AutumnBeautyOrientationGuide

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This block has just 4 shapes but two are used in reverse in construction.

Here is the orientation graphic.  You can print out your own AutumnBeautyOrientationGuide and this guide will have a permanent link on the 2015 OTR page soon.AutumnBeautyPic3

What sent me back to the my studio to regroup some fabrics was the “D/Dr” piece(s).  I originally cut them from two different fabrics, similar in color, just one light and one dark.  But it just seemed to busy for the eye when I laid out my pieces.   After much tweeking I decided to go with ONE fabric for both pieces, and made it a print to try to hide the seam line.  I thought about asking PaperPieces.com to remanufacture the D/Dr into one piece, but then realized maybe in the future I would  make the block using two different fabrics.  And so this give more options to everyone.  So the D piece remains and you will need to flip it for Dr.

The C piece is also used in reverse on this block for Cr.  I did use two fabrics here and you will see this in a later post.

AutumnBeautyPic4I pulled out my red choices and went to work putting together palettes for 7 Autumn Beauty Blocks. AutumnBeautyPic5  I am not going to cover marking your fabrics and cutting out.  This has been covered numerous times already this year.  You can check back on some of the earlier blocks (see links on 2015 OTR page) for information if you are new to the process or need a refresher.

Here are the palettes for the blocks in this row of the quilt.  Looks interesting if I say so myself.

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Ok…next blog….the breakdown and “sewing up” of this Autumn Beauty block.

I am thinking Saturday for that post.

Enjoy the day,

MickeySignature

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

August Block – Options Galore!

Friday, July 10th, 2015

This blog is full of ideas for using the Augusta block with Paris Flight (January), Jim Dandy (March) and Lady of the Lake Block (May).

Let’s begin with my layout for my row quilt showing the Augusta block row dropped in.

Augusta2015OTRproject

Only two more block designs to go….this year is flying by!

I plan to put up the foundation pattern for the triangle spacer rows in August. I am home most of the month so it will get done.

And of course there will be a blog announcing the addition of the PDF for their foundations to the 2015 O.T.R. page.

But for now I played with all the blocks I have released so far and came up with the following ideas to share.

AugustaAlone1I wanted to make a very traditional one block quilt layout with sashing and cornerstones using the Augusta block.

It is such a dynamic block with all the sharp angles I wanted to just see it on it’s own.   When I first start to play with the block(s) I am just using the blocks from my 2015 On The Road row quilt project thus the coloring.  But I see the lines and that is what I am always looking for.  Then I start to play with color.

AugustaAlone1.2I used two different colorways for the blocks.  Again very traditional.  But the palette very modern.

This next pattern uses Augusta, Lady of the Lake and Paris Flight blocks.

Augusta.LadyoftheLake.ParisFlight 1

And recolored in a soft cool color palette.

Augusta.LadyoftheLake.ParisFlight 1.2

How about putting Jim Dandy and Augusta together.

Jim Dandy is such a heavy block to me with those blocky corners.  I wanted to see it as a border.

JimDandy&Augusta1

And I think this might go in the list of possibilities.

I brought colors from the “hot” Jim Dandy border blocks into the first ring of “cool” Augusta blocks to soften the solid line between block changes.

JimDandy&Augusta1.2I hope you like some of these ideas.  And maybe you have a few of your own now dancing in your head.

You can find template  (and EPP papers if you would like to tackle the blocks that way) in my store, the link is above in the header.   And links to all the “how-to blogs” for each block are on the 2015 O.T.R. page.

I am out the door on Monday for 8 days of touring the state of Michigan and visiting several guilds.

Any orders placed from July 13 to July 21st will ship out on July 22nd.

And don’t forget to “like” my facebook page MDQuilts to see blocks as they are being made while I am one the road.

Enjoy your day,

MickeySignature

Augusta Block – How to Part #2

Thursday, July 9th, 2015

WARNING THIS BLOG IS VERY PICTURE HEAVY FOR THOSE DOWNLOADING ON A MOBILE DEVICE

Starting this blog off with a reposting of the orientation guide so you won’t have to flip back to the previous blog for reference.  Remember you can print off a PDF of this guide, and guides for ALL the acrylic template sets on the 2015 O.T.R page.

AugustaOrientationGuide

  The next step in sewing the Augusta block is to sew the four C-D-C units together to make a large triangle

 July08pic1

Match up your corners/points of your drawn seam line.  Pin the seams together horizontally.  Notice in this pic that the black/tan fabric is poking up over the top of the pink edge.  That is because I cut the pint a bit smaller than I was suppose to.  We are human.  Not machines.  This happens in hand work when you are hand cutting the pieces.  Thus always match your drawn line vs your cut edge when piecing.

July08pic2

And away we go.  Remember to sew just above your drawn seam line.  Think of it as a scant quarter inch in hand sewing.

July08pic3

With the first C piece sewn to D it is time to add the second C.  And yes there is a “roundabout” to be made.  I will not go over it in detail here to save space.  You can find a detailed account of how to make a roundabout in Tuesday’s blog post here.

Augusta-Unit-B-roundabouts

Match your corners/points, horizontal pin the seam lines, and make your roundabout.

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And then sew your seam.

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Make four C-D-C units.   This is where you should be at this point.

July08pic6

The Augusta block is at this point is basically like a Nine Patch in construction but set on point.

The next seam is joining a unit made in the last blog to opposite sides of the center square to make the center strip.

Then you want to sew a C-D-C unit to opposite sides of each of the two remaining units.  Follow the picture below for guidance.

July08pic8

This is how I press this block.  Press all the triangle units flat, with the upper B triangle  overlapping the tip of the lower B triangle.

July08pic9

Two seams left.   Two long seams.  One along each lengthwise edge of the center strip.

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And yes there will be 5 roundabouts in each length sewn.

The rule is a roundabout is made anytime three or more pieces of fabric are being joined together.

AugustaFULLroundabouts

And your Augusta block is done!

AugustaBlock

Check back tomorrow when I show you where this block lands in my row quilt plan.  And then some playing around with the block in settings by itself and with some of the other blocks I have already covered this year.   That is what this year’s project is all about.  I wanted some variety after last year’s single block quilt using Castle Wall.  But I know that not everyone will like the very busy nature of my row quilt plan and that is just fine.  I am all about taking an idea and spring boarding to a  plan of your own.  You can start now and make an entire quilt just with Augusta.  I just want to share my love of hand piecing with the world.  And if you have  suggestions of a combo of blocks you might like to see let me know.  I love to play in EQ7.

’til tomorrow,

MickeySignature

Augusta Block – How to Part #1

Tuesday, July 7th, 2015

WARNING THIS BLOG IS VERY PICTURE HEAVY FOR THOSE DOWNLOADING ON A MOBILE DEVICE

First thanks for waiting for the “how-to” blogs on Augusta.  If you follow me on Facebook you will know that over the holiday weekend I landed up seeing an urgent care Nurse for what turned out to be a sinus infection.  I am on the mend but those first few days under the antibiotics…well I slept…a lot.   Not one firework was viewed this weekend.  I promised myself that next year I will make up for this fact.

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I am anxious to share Augusta with you as I am enjoying piecing the blocks already.  Yes I started one during the holiday weekend.  Didn’t get very far but can’t wait to work on it some more this week.

I am not going to go over marking your fabrics using the acrylic templates as that has been covered already under the general info blogs at the beginning of the year and a very detailed blog here (yes it is for the Castle Wall block but the same info applies to all blocks).  But you will find some quick pics below of the process for a quick reminder.

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There are five shapes in the Augusta Block.

Fabrics chosen for the block.  Remember what is tying together all my block in my 2015 On The Road Project is the use of red in each and every one.  Augusta BlockI have decided to put the red in the triangles indicated on the graphic.

You will find an Acrylic Template Orientation Guide PDF on the OTR 2015 page to download and print out.   Here is the graphic so we can follow along during the blog.

AugustaOrientationGuide

And here are all my pieces cut and ready to go.

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We are going to start with the E-B-E-B-A units.  You will piece four of these.

Augusta-Unit-A20150629_123543

First you will piece B to E along the edge that they meet.

I am starting with the green triangle to the right hand E piece.

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Remember you want to match up your sewing lines not your edges for the most accurate piecing.  To do this I push a pin thru each point/end of the triangle lining up the drawn seam line points on piece E.  Then I place a small pin (these are the new short version of Karen Kay Buckley’s pins you can find them in my shop under notions) thru both seam lines.

Start each new seam with a back stitch and then back stitch very 4-5 stitches.  You will make a running stitch.  I rock my needle back and forth taking small bites of fabric.  This is a skill and your stitch size and ease of sewing will improve the more blocks you make.

VERY IMPORTANT: sew one or two threads ABOVE your drawn seam line.  this will make up for the unintentional width added to the drawn line by whatever drawing instrument you used.   The templates have a 1/4 inch seam line.  Thus when marked that becomes slightly larger.

Knot off at the end and repeat for the second triangle B (red in my case) and second piece E.

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Press your seam allowance towards piece E.

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Now it is time to sew these two B-E pieces together down the long center seam.  Your first “roundabout” will happen at the center of this seam. We will cover each move in detail   But don’t knot off when you are done you will pivot and sew piece A onto the edge of your outer edge triangle B.

Red circles in illustration indicated where Roundabouts will be made.

Augusta-Unit-A-roundabouts

Let’s line up that first part of the seam line but matching up our corners.

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The pin goes right thru the corner on the other unit.

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I have pinned each end and the center point/seam matchup perpendicularly so the pins can remain in right up to the moment I am sewing thru the roundabout.

I also pinned the seam lines on each unit 20150629_193651

Make a backstitch to start your seam and begin your running stitch just above the drawn line.20150629_193753

Finish off with a back stitch at the end of this first leg of stitching and it’s time to make a roundabout.  This move will draw all four corners together giving you a nice crisp intersection when you open up the unit. picP20150629_194213

picPush your needle thru B (green) to adjoining E at the very corner of the seam line. As if you were aligning the points.  Pull your thread thru. 20150629_194311

Same move but this time from E to the opposite triangle B (red).  Pull thread thru. 20150629_194412

Repeat move again this time from B (red) to adjoining E.  Pull thread thru20150629_194429

Push needle from E to B (green triangle).  Pull thru thread20150629_194452

Right back where we started. Repeat just once more to get to the remainder of the seam to sew.20150629_194507

Make a backstitch and sew the rest of the long center seam joining both B-E pieces. 20150629_194614

But don’t knot off you can join piece A immediately.

Make a roundabout joining A-E-B sew the seam and end with another roundabout on the opposite edge. 20150629_195236

So here is where I have to leave you.  I have run out of space to post the final unit picture but I think you will be fine.  I did actually go back and remove a few pics just to get all these in.   Thursday we will tackle the C-D-C units and the sewing of all the units and center triangle together.   And on Friday we will have some fun designing with the Augusta Block.

Thanks again for hanging in there with me and few free to post any questions you may have.

Enjoy the day,

Mickey

2015 On The Road – Block Four!

Wednesday, July 1st, 2015

AUGUSTA!

Of course the spot on the calendar for this block would of ideally been August. But since we are working with odd number months I decided July it is!   Plus this block reminds me of fireworks.  I think it is the long sharp angles.  It is a powerful design.

Augusta is also the name of my great aunt on my father’s side of the family.  Aunt Gusty as we called her lived a long and full life into her nineties.  She was quite the traveler with two passports jam packed with stamps.   I only wish she lived longer or I was older when our time here on earth overlapped so I could ask her more questions about her travels.    So working on these blocks for the next two months I am sure will be filled with fleeting thoughts of my great aunt for myself.

Five templates are needed for this block.   And the repetitive shapes make for ample opportunities to play with color and texture.   You can see by the block image that I have chosen to put the red color in the outer triangle that makes up the rectangle unit.   Not the obvious triangle(s) that surround the center square.  Sometimes the not so obvious makes a more interesting overall design.

July1pic2I spent two nights kitting up seven blocks to be completed in July and August.   Most likely half these blocks will be done at home in this segment as I typically do not book anything in August in the way of work travel.  I do have one overnight gig in August but it is truly just one night so I am giving myself permission to do a few while “on the road”  in the gazebo in the backyard or even while watching a movie while escaping the heat of August indoors at home.

        The Acrylic Template sets, and English Paper Piecing sets (one and six blocks) are in the store (see tab above)  and you can order now if you wish.

And since this block release coincides with Fourth of July Holiday Celebrations

I am offering free shipping on all orders over $50 until midnight CST on July 5th.  

Just use the code: JULY4TH as you checkout.

U.S. DOMESTIC SHIPPING ONLY!

I hope you like this block and will join along with us on my facebook page as blocks are created and posted/shared for all to see.  I just love seeing them all!

I will begin posting the “how to” blogs on July 6th.  Since this is the first year in almost a decade that Paul has the true holiday off we plan to spend it barbequing and firework watching like the rest of the country.   Time off with family and friends is always time well spent.  So I hope you don’t mind that I am going to hold off a few days before I post (and answer) any how-to questions you may have.    And if you order your templates/papers before I shut down shipping on Friday morn at 10am you might even have them in hand for when the how-to’s begin to post.

Happy July 4th Everyone!

MickeySignature

Let’s Play with the Lady of the Lake block!

Wednesday, May 6th, 2015

This blog is full of ideas for using the Lady of the Lake block with Paris Flight (January  block) and Jim Dandy (March block).  Let the visual parade begin.

This is my layout for my row quilt showing the Lady of the Lake block row dropped in.  I plan to put up the foundation pattern for the triangle spacer rows this summer.  keep an eye out on the blog/website for that to appear on the 2015 O.T.R. page.

 So what if I just wanted to make my row quilt using the three blocks released.  Here is one setting I might consider.

Or maybe this.  I love the secondary pattern of the Jim Dandy block so might want to repeat that block in side by side rows for it.

Or how about just Lady of the Lake (center) and Jim Dandy (borders) in a quilt.   Almost looks like a flower bed with lattice around it.

But it’s this checkerboard setting that has my head imagining another project.

I am loving the secondary “circles” that are formed when these two blocks meet.

Short and sweet post.

Remember all the templates and EPP papers for the blocks, Paris Flight, Jim Dandy and Lady of the Lake PLUS Castle Wall are currently on sale on my shore page until midnight on Sunday, May 10th.

Happy Mother’s Day to all….I am taking the weekend off myself and going to enjoy doing a whole lot of reading in the gardens and laughing with friends and family.

Catch you all on Monday with a blog post and heads up a giveaway!

MickeySignature

 

 

Lady of the Lake – How to Part #2

Tuesday, May 5th, 2015

WARNING THIS BLOG IS VERY PICTURE HEAVY FOR THOSE DOWNLOADING ON A MOBILE DEVICE

Ok let’s tackle the rest of the block today.  Here is the breakdown of the block again in sections.  We tackled the B-A-Br (r meaning reverse) section last blog, and you will need 4 of those units for this block.

LadyoftheLake-units

Now let’s tackle the center  C-E-F-E-C section.  There is just one of these and since there are only single seam sewing there are no roundabouts to do.  The hardest part of this section are the slight curves in the seams joining E & F but you tackled those in the first sections so I am sure you are a pro by now.

LOTLsecA

The next section is the D-C-D-E section.  Two units to sew.  Everything thing gets sewn to E.  Start on either D, continue to C and finish with D.

LOTLsecB

Remember the trick to nice tight intersections and sharp points is the “roundabout move”.  This has been covered at length in previous blocks (Castle Wall, Paris Flight) so I won’t go back over it here, you can easily refer back to the blogs for a refresher.  But quickly a roundabout is all about passing your needle thru TWO pieces of fabric at a time and making a continuous stitch thru an intersection pulling all the intersecting fabrics together.  An example of this sequence if you started with the right side D piece in the image below, the roundabout would be finish with a backstitch at the end of D/E.  Pass thru D/C, then C/E, back to D/E and finish with D/C again.  Make a back stich and continue sewing C to E.

LOTLsecB.1

All units done.

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Now let’s join the two D-E-C-D units to the center unit of C-E-F-E-C.

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Because this entire length of seam is a curve you must pin.   I pin vertically at each end, at each intersection and then twice, splitting the length, in each D section.   Don’t forget your roundabouts at those two center intersections.

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Now on to the sewing the four corner units.  Yes you can sew these in one big circle around the block.  But that’s a lot of thread to load into your needle.  Too much thread to have a successful and zen sewing time.  So I have decided to just sew each seam individually as I would if I was at my sewing machine.
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Pin your ends and intersections.  Since there is no curve you shouldn’t need to pin your lengths in the B/Br edges.  But if you feel you need to then by all means do.

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The red circles indicate the roundabouts.

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Two more corner units to go!

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And now when joining these units note that there will be NEW roundabouts as indicated by the green circles at the beginning and end of the block.  While some might think these are overkill I feel that in the long run they will make for crisper block when sewing rows together.   And what the heck it’s not like you aren’t a pro at these now to…so sew the roundabouts I say!

LadyoftheLakeFinalRoundabouts2

Ta-Da!  Your Lady of the Lake block is done!

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So as mentioned before, all my blocks will have red fabric in the area (piece D) indicated as a way of pulling my scrappy row by row quilt together.

LadyoftheLakeBlockImage

and I have started kitting the remainder of my blocks for the next two months of travel.

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Join me tomorrow for some inspiration quilt settings with the Lady of the Lake , Paris Flight, and Jim Dandy blocks!

On the homefront I will be shoving off to my guild visit with the Gems of the Prairie in Peoria, IL tomorrow morning.   This being said any orders that come in for templates by midnight tonight I will get them in the mail before I shove off…if not orders won’t go out until Monday, May 11th.

Off to finish packing!

MickeySignature

 

Lady of the Lake Block – How to Part #1

Sunday, May 3rd, 2015

WARNING THIS BLOG IS VERY PICTURE HEAVY FOR THOSE DOWNLOADING ON A MOBILE DEVICE

Let’s begin!  As I said previously this block really has intriqued me.  Don’t let the slightly curved seams scare you.  Hand piecing makes that a breeze and the design elements that they give are awesome.

I am not going to go over marking your fabrics using the acrylic templates as that has been covered already under the general info blogs at the beginning of the year and a very detailed blog here (yes it is for the Castle Wall block but the same info applies to all blocks).

Here are the templates.  There are six shapes in the Lady of the Lake Block.

Fabrics chosen for the block.  Remember what is tying together all my block in my 2015 On The Road Project is the use of red in each and every one.

I am not going to go over marking your fabrics using the acrylic templates as that has been covered already under the general info blogs at the beginning of the year and a very detailed blog here (yes it is for the Castle Wall block but the same info applies to all blocks).  But I will do a few quick pics to help refresh/guide an newcomers…and we have many!

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Ok it’s time to sew!.

Here is an orientation guideline for the templates.  NOTE: Piece B is used flipped over (in reverse) for half the pieces in the block.

You can find a PDF of this orientation guide on the 2015. O.T.R page under the Lady of the Lake Block.

Be sure to keep checking this page periodically for useful/information PDFs.

Let’s break down this block into sections.  There are three.

Br-A-B (4 units)

D-E-D-C (2 units)

C-E-F-E-C (1 unit)

Let’s start with the Br-A-B section.  There isn’t any continuous line sewing in this unit so it will be quick seams.  But there are slight curves, so let’s tackle how to make those happen.

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The pinning for these curved pieces is a bit different than what we have done before in the Castle Wall, Paris Flight and Jim Dandy blocks.   The templates have the corners knocked off on the points so that lining things up will be easier.   You want to line up each corner edge of B to the corresponding edge of A.

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT B or Br PIECE. 

In fact I suggest laying out your pieces in front of you orientating them correctly before you pick them up to sew.

I pin in a vertical manner as shown  in the seam allowance using an ultra fine pins on each edge.  Then I gently ease in the curve of each piece to each other and put a third pin vertically directly thru the center.   You may wish to check that your seam lines line up with a quick needle check before you begin sewing.  But if you take care marking and cutting your pieces you will find that a little extra time/care in doing so makes life sweeter when sewing.

Now you can begin to sew

IMPORTANT!   Sew two or three threads above your drawn line!

This compensates for the fact that getting into the exact edge of the template with your marking pen/pencil is

nearly impossible.   TRUST ME this is how you end up with a 10.5″ block (unfinished) and not a 10.25″ or smaller block at the end.

Make a backstitch to start off.

And backstitch every inch as you are sewing and always finish a line with a backstitch even if you are going on to another piece without knotting off.

Running stitch.    Remove pin when you reach it with your needle and thread.

Sew to the end of the seam, back stitch and knot off.

Now in order for the curved seam to lay flat we need to make some cuts into the seam allowance.

Three small cuts will do it. Be sure to leave several threads between the end of you snip and the sewn seam.

Viola!  a lovely flat gently curved seam!  SEW EASY to accomplish with hand piecing!

Now continue on with the other side (Br) and then finish up the remaining three Br-A-B units.

Tomorrow we tackle the rest of the block.

’til then,

MickeySignature